Menopause and why your skincare routine suddenly stopped working

Perimenopause and menopause often come with skin changes that appear suddenly, leaving women wondering why products they have used for years no longer seem to work.

They tend to blame a new wrinkle, a bout of dryness or a sudden reaction to a favourite skincare product on getting older said Dr Juanri Jonck, a practitioner in aesthetic and regenerative medicine.

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She said the mirror may be telling a very different story to what reality might be.

One of the clearest clues is the speed at which those changes occur, Jonck said.

“Normal ageing is usually gradual, but hormonally driven skin changes can appear over months, even when a woman has not changed her skincare, diet or lifestyle.”

Women often describe feeling as though their skin no longer belongs to them, she said.

Skin that once felt healthy and predictable may suddenly become dry, reactive and easily irritated.

“It may become drier, more reactive, less radiant and less resilient. Products that worked for years may suddenly sting or cause redness.”

The experience is quite common.

Jonck said that research suggests women can lose as much as 30% of their collagen within the first five years of menopause, while fluctuating and declining oestrogen levels affect everything from hydration and elasticity to the skin’s ability to repair itself.

Major collagen loss

She added that many women mistakenly focus on individual wrinkles when the earliest signs are often more subtle.

“A common early sign is a loss of skin quality rather than one obvious wrinkle. Skin may feel less plump, slower to recover and more easily irritated.”

This, while many women enter perimenopause at the same time as managing careers, businesses and families, making the changes particularly difficult to understand.

“For many women, the emotional impact is significant because the change feels unexpected and undeserved.

“It is not simply about vanity or wanting to look younger. It is about suddenly feeling unfamiliar in your own skin.”

Menopause and your skin. picture iStock

Sleep disruption, mood changes and fluctuating energy levels often occur at the same time, adding another layer of frustration.

Jonck also added that social media is not helping, especially when already vulnerable skin is pushed towards stronger and more aggressive routines.

“The biggest concern is the idea that more is better. Social media often promotes aggressive routines with multiple acids, strong retinoids, frequent exfoliation, harsh peels and repeated procedures layered together.”

But it’s not so.

“The barrier has not become more sensitive. It has become less capable of controlling what reaches the deeper layers of the skin,” she said.

Declining oestrogen affects the skin’s ability to retain moisture, regulate inflammation and maintain structural integrity, Jonck said.

Rather than reaching immediately for stronger active ingredients, she recommended rebuilding and supporting the skin barrier first.

“Menopausal skin usually responds best to barrier repair first: hydration, anti-inflammatory support, antioxidants, collagen-supporting ingredients and daily sun protection.”

Hormone therapy intervention

Hormone replacement therapy may also play a role for suitable candidates.

Jonck said oestrogen supports collagen production, hydration, elasticity and wound healing.

When hormone levels decline, many of those functions are compromised.

“Many women notice that their skin feels better hydrated, more comfortable, less reactive and more resilient.”

Hormone therapy interventions may have an impact. Picture Supplied

She cautioned, however, that hormone replacement therapy should not be viewed as a cosmetic treatment.

“It will not erase established wrinkles, reverse significant sun damage or replace the need for good skincare and lifestyle habits.”

Lifestyle choices continue to impact women throughout the menopause transition.

Smoking accelerates collagen breakdown, excessive alcohol contributes to dehydration and inflammation, while ongoing sun exposure speeds up pigmentation, thinning and loss of elasticity.

Lifestyle choices and their impact

Jonck said exercise, particularly resistance training, alongside good nutrition, sleep and stress management can all help support healthier skin.

Women in their mid-forties should not wait until significant changes appear before taking action.

“I would encourage women to start before the skin begins to deteriorate significantly. Prevention is far more powerful than trying to reverse established changes later.”

Daily sunscreen, barrier-supportive skincare, adequate protein, exercise and paying attention to early warning signs all form part of that approach.

Most importantly, Dr Jonck said women must understand that menopause is about far more than periods stopping.

“Oestrogen receptors are present throughout the skin, brain, bones, muscles and cardiovascular system.”

Preparing for menopause, she said, should not begin with a new moisturiser.

“It should be a whole-body conversation, not just a skincare one.”

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